This blog is way over due.  Numerous times over the years I have had people quiz me about their heat pump operation.  Questions or observations such as :  "Why is the air coming out of my registers not warm?", "Why does my heat pump run all the time?", "The outdoor unit is running, but the fan is not turning", "A puff of steam just came out of the outdoor unit", "My outdoor heat pump is making loud and/or weird noises."  This blog will attempt to answer some of those questions.  Heat pumps truly are mysterious to the uninformed.

To understand heat pumps, first, we must understand the basic operation of air conditioners.  Air conditoners cool your home in the summer time by "absorbing" heat from your indoor air and expelling that heat outside.  Without getting into the physics of refrigeration, lets look at the basic set up of a cooling system.  There is the refrigerant, the piping to contain and transport the refrigerant, the compressor to pump the refrigerant through the system, and two coils (one inside, one outside) to exchange the heat.  Indoor and outdoor fan motors are also important to draw air across the coils and allow them to exchange the heat.  I am tempted to go into more detail here, but I think this will be sufficient.  Anyhow, when your air conditioner is turned on by the thermostat, the compressor, and both indoor/outdoor fan motors are energized.  The compressor is pumping refrigerant through the system and the fan motors are supplying air to both indoor and outdoor coils which allows the heat to be absorbed by the indoor coil, transported to the outdoor coil where it is expelled to the surrounding air.  This is why the air temperature coming out of the outdoor unit is warmer than the outdoor air and vice versa, the indoor air is cooler. 

Now that we have a basic idea how an air conditioner works, let us apply that knowledge to understanding heat pump operation.  Imagine an air conditioner with a reverse gear in regard to the direction of the refrigerant flow.  That, in a nutshell, is what a heat pump is.  There is more to it than that, but this concept will suffice.  When the heat pump is energized in the heating mode, the refrigerant flows in the opposite direction than it does in the cooling mode.  This causes the indoor and outdoor coils to exchange functions.  Now, in the heating mode, the outdoor coil is absorbing heat from the surrounding air and that heat is then discharged from the indoor coil providing heat to your home.

Next, lets look at how a heat pump is sized.  Most people don't realize this, but heat pumps are sized based on your cooling needs, not heating demand.  In northern climates, say Ohio for example, heating load (or demand) is higher than the cooling load.  Which means that your heat pump is insufficient to supply all of your heating demand.  The reason for this is that heat pumps and ducting system would have to be grossly oversized to be the only source of heat.  This is unrealistic, and heat pumps are inefficient at low outdoor temperatures (i.e. single digits or less) as well.  This is why we have an auxillary heat source to back up the heat pump in northern climates.  This auxillary heat source, whether it be electric, LP, or oil, is usually sized to provide all of your heating needs even without the heat pump running.  The reason that we don't use this auxillary source all the time is efficiency.  At outdoor temperatures above 20F, most heat pumps are providing heat more efficiently than your auxillary source.  At single temps and below...not so much.  The heat pump capacity (tons) and efficiency (HSPF or SEER) is dependent on outdoor temperature.  The lower the temperature, the lower the capacity and efficiency. 

Another term used to describe the efficiency of a heat pump is the COP.  This stands for Coefficient Of Performance.  The best way to understand COP is this :  A heat pump with a COP of 2 provides twice as much heat as electric for the same money.  Or, you get the same amount of heat from a heat pump vs electric at half the cost.  So, a heat pump with a COP of 3 provides the same amount of heat that you would get from an all electric heat source for one third the cost.  Most heat pumps today have a COP at or near 3.0.

For more info on COP and SEER go here :

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Seasonal_energy_efficiency_ratio

In the central Ohio area, your heating system should be able to warm your home to +70F with outdoor temperatures down to +5F.  Most systems can do better than this.  But, most heat pumps can only provide +70F indoor temperature with outdoor temperatures somewhere between +20F and +35F.  With temperatures lower than that, they need the auxillary heat source to help.  This brings us to a concept called the "balance point."  The "balance point" is the point (outdoor temp) where the rate of heat gain provided by your heat pump is equal to the rate of heat loss by your home.  Which means your heat pump is running continuously to maintain the temperature inside your home. At temperatures below the "balance point", the temperature inside your home would begin to drop.  That is when your auxillary heat source kicks in to help maintain your indoor set point temperature.  With all electric homes, the electric auxillary heat runs with the heat pump to provide heat as efficiently as possible.  In homes that use a fossil fuel (gas, LP, or oil) for the auxillary heat source, the heat pump shuts down and the auxillary heat source takes over.  While this is not ideal, it is necessary due to the fact that the indoor coil has to be after the indoor heat source with these systems (which would create havoc with your heat pump if it were to continue running).  These systems which use a fossil fuel as the auxillary heat source are called "hybrid" heat pump systems. 

As you can see, heat pumps will run continuously at and below your balance point.  So, if your heat pump is running a lot, that doesn't mean there is something wrong with it.  That said, there stills exists the possibility that may there may be a problem with the system.  If your heat pump seems to run at 2F lower than your thermostat setting, and your utility bills have jumped significantly, then you could have a problem with the outdoor unit.  Check to see if it is running outside when the indoor system is running.  If not, then you have a problem.  But, even if it is running, there could still be a problem.  In this case, you may want to call your HVAC service provider and set up an appointment to have a technician look at your heat pump.  Only a technician can tell you if your system is running ok or not.  Be prepared for the tech to say everything is ok. 

So now you know that heat pumps have a tendency to run continuously at low temps.  But, that is ok.  What about the air not feeling warm enough?  Most heat pumps provide around 20 to 25F rise in temperature.  Which means that if your set point temperature is 70F, then you can expect around 90-95F temperature coming out of your registers (some newer heat pumps can be warmer than this).  Since our body temperature is 98F, 90-95F will not "feel" that warm even though the system is providing heat to your home.  There may be times when the air temperature coming out of your registers feels warmer.  This happens when the second stage, or auxillary heat kicks in.   

"My outdoor unit is running, but the fan blade is not turning!"  If you see this, your heat pump is probably ok.  If the unit runs for more than 10 minutes without the fan kicking in, then you may have a problem.  Another related observation :  "A puff of steam just came out of the top of my heat pump!"  These two observations are a normal part of your heat pump's defrost cycle.  Several things happen when your heat pump enters the defrost mode.  Your heat pump will enter defrost mode when sensors on the outdoor coil detect a build up of frost or ice on the coil.  When this occurs, your heat pump will switch from heating mode to cooling mode (this warms up the outdoor coil to allow defrost to occur), the outdoor fan motor shuts down (to speed up the defrost process), and your auxillary heat comes on inside to temper the air.  As the frost and ice begin to melt, you will see steam coming off the heat pump.  This defrost process usually takes less than 10 minutes.  At the end of the defrost cycle, the heat pump switches back to heating mode, the fan motor comes on (a puff of steam is usually visible), and the auxillary heat switches off (unless needed to support heat pump). 

Ok, we have explored the why heat pumps seem to run continuously, why the air temperature seems cool, why the outdoor unit may be running but the out door fan motor is not, and why steam sometimes comes out of the top of the heat pump.  What about strange noises coming from the heat pump?  Usually, a noisy heat pump is due to stress on the compressor.  Before you call your service provider, check your indoor air filter and replace/clean if necessary.  Also, insure that most of your registers, dampers, and grilles are open or not blocked by anything.  Good indoor airflow is crucial to a happy compressor.  If after checking these the noise is still there, call your service provider to schedule an appointment to have the heat pump serviced.  The technician can check both indoor and outdoor coils for proper airflow, insure that the refrigerant level is correct, and that the compressor voltage and amperage are normal.  If everything checks out to be fine, then the noise is likely due to normal wear and tear of the compressor.  Replacing the compressor is the only option at this point.  That said, and considering the high cost of compressor replacement, most compressors can continue to run (for years in some cases) in spite of the noise. 

Hopefully, this blog has been helpful and informative without being too confusing.  I apologize that it is quite a bit longer than most of my blogs, but there was a lot of ground that I wanted to cover.  Honestly, it could have been a lot longer ;)

If you live in or near Columbus Ohio, and need assistance with your heat pump, you can contact us at 614-837-5062.

Thanks,

Jim Harless

Minutemen Heating & Cooling, Inc. 

Is your gas furnace old?  Is your gas bill high?  Does your furnace break down frequently?  If you answered yes to any of these questions, then it may be worth it to consider a new high efficiency gas furnace.  An old furnace will generally be less effcient due to age, dirt, and corrosion.  Which may lead to a higher than necessary gas utility bill.  Let's explore some of the ways that a new furnace can save you money.

Federal energy tax credits are one way to lower the initial cost of a new furnace.  The current energy tax credits are set to expire December 31st, 2013.  So time is just about up to take advantage of the energy tax credits.  A new gas furnace with an A.F.U.E. (annual fuel utilization efficiency) of 95% or higher qualifies for a $150.00 tax credit.  If you purchase a furnace with a variable speed blower motor ( a.k.a. an advanced main circulatory fan) then you can qualify for an additional $50.00 tax credit.  In addition, if you purchase a new air conditioner ( SEER 16 or higher) or a new heat pump ( SEER 15 or higher), then you can qualify for an additional $300.00 energy tax credit.  For example, let's say you purchase a 96.7% efficient 2-stage variable speed gas furnace and 16 SEER air conditioner, you would qualify for a $ 500.00 energy tax credit.  Remember, these energy tax credits are set to expire in a few weeks, so time is critical.

To learn more about the federal energy tax credits, click here :                  http://www.energystar.gov/index.cfm?c=tax_credits.tx_index  

Certain utility providers also have rebate programs available to help offset the cost of high efficiency HVAC equipment.  AEP has a program that offers a $50.00 rebate for a programmable thermostat (with heat pumps), $150.00 for new indoors unit with a variable speed blower, $100.00 for air conditioner SEER 14.5 or higher, $350.00 for a heat pump of SEER 14.5 or higher (both ac and heat pump would need to replace a unit that was 13 SEER or less to qualify), and a complete system bonus of $150.00.  The maximum rebate would be around $700.00 for a complete new system.

To learn more about AEP rebates, click here :        http://dsireusa.org/incentives/incentive.cfm?Incentive_Code=OH97F

One of the biggest ways to save money with a new furnace is the efficiency savings over the life of the furnace.  I have a good real life example of this.  10 years ago, I replaced my mother's furnace for her.  Her old furnace was 30 years old, over-sized, and dirty.  I replaced it with a standard 80% A.F.U.E. gas furnace that was right-sized.  I did not use a high efficiency model furnace (90%+) because her house is small (only about 750 sq feet).  I replaced the furnace the first week of December that season.  The following spring (about mid-April), my step-father called to inform me that their gas utility provider had lowered their monthly budget  by $40.00.  Since, they are on the budget program, that means they saved $480.00 a year and $4,800.00 over the last 10 years (not counting utility increases over that time which would make their savings even higher).  The furnace cost a lot less than $4,800.00 which means they not only have totally recouped their inital cost of installing the furnace, but they are saving big money now.  The other upside to this story is that furnace has another 10 to 20 years of life left in it.  It doesn't take much to see the benefits of replacing an old inefficient furnace.

energystar.gov has a tool on their site that allows you to calculate your savings of one model furnace over another.  Click here :    http://www.energystar.gov/index.cfm?fuseaction=find_a_product.showProductGroup&pgw_code=FU

And then, underneath "furnace resources" on the right side of the page, click on "savings calculator".

One final thing, Minutemen Heating and Cooling is offering a $100.00 discount towards a new furnace installation (no other discounts apply) or $200.00 discount towards the installation a new complete system (both furnace and ac).  This offer expires with the energy tax credits on December 31, 2013.  Just mention that you read this blog to qualify for the discount. 

I hope this has been informative.  Call Minutemen Heating and Cooling today for a free estimate to install a new HVAC system in your home.  You can reach us at Phone 614-837-5062.

Thanks!

Jim Harless

Here we go!  November is here and the cold weather is settling in.  If you have not had your furnace tuned up for the heating season, it's not too late. 

Regular annual maintenance on your furnace can prevent breakdowns and costly furnace repairs, insure that your furnace is operating safely and efficiently, and also prolong the life of your furnace.  Knowing that your furnace is operating safely and efficiently provides peace of mind as well. 

If you choose not to maintain your furnace annually, these are some of the things that you could be missing.  A compromised furnace heat exchanger or flue.  By compromised I mean :  dirty, blocked, or cracked.  This can lead to a dangerous build up of carbon monoxide in your home.  Dirty blower wheels, evaporator coils, and filters can restrict airflow and cause your furnace or heating system to work harder and run longer than normal to heat your home this season.  This will show up in higher utility costs (i.e. inefficiency) and also lead to premature failure of the following components :  heat exchanger, blower motor, blower capacitor, and high temperature limit safety control.  Dirty burners and burner safety controls can lead to inefficient or incomplete combustion.  In addition to inefficiency, this can also lead to nuisance burner lockouts which leave you without heat until an HVAC technician cleans the burners for you.  Other things which can be preventative in nature include :  measuring capacitor capacitance, ignitor ohms, motor amperages, and inspecting wiring to insure it is in good shape.  All these things can help to prevent furnace breakdown and repairs.  It is easy to see that having annual maintenance performed on your furnace is well worth the cost of the service call to have your furnace inspected. 

Another to consider is the age of your furnace.  If your furnace is 20+ years old, it may be worthwhile getting a free estimate for a new high efficiency model furnace that can save you on your utility bills.

If you live in the central Ohio area and would like to schedule an appointment for a furnace maintenance tune-up, or to set up a free estimate for a new furnace call us at :

Phone 614-837-5062

Thanks,

Jim Harless

With new efficiency rules going into effect next year for gas furnaces, this is a good time to discuss furnace efficiency and how those rules will impact homeowners.

First, let's look at the differences between standard efficiency gas furnaces and high efficiency gas furnaces.

Standard efficiency gas furnaces are generally rated at or near 80% A.F.U.E. which stands for "Annual Fuel Utilization Efficiency". This means that 80% of the heat produced through combustion is used to heat your home while the remaining 20% is lost with the combustion products through the flue. The "flue" is the vent that escorts the combustion products out of your home. Those combustion products include steam (water), carbon dioxide, carbon monoxide, and various other gases. The flues for the standard efficiency gas furnaces are typically one of two types. They are "Mason" or "B-Vent". Mason flues are brick or masonry block chimneys that vent the combustion products to the roof. B-Vent flues are double-walled metal pipe that also vent the combustion products to the roof. Both "Mason" and "B-Vent" flues may be "common vented". Which means they provide venting for more than one gas appliance. Typically, you will find a furnace and water heater "common vented". 

High efficiency gas furnaces, also known as "Condensing Furnaces", generally fall between 90% and 97% A.F.U.E.  For example, if your furnace is rated at 95% A.F.U.E., then 95% of heat produced through the combustion process is used for heating your home, while only 5% is lost through the flue.  High efficiency condensing gas furnaces differ from the standard efficiency models in several ways.  The primary difference is the manner in which they are vented.  Since the heat lost through the flue of a high efficiency condensing furnace is a lot less than the heat lost through the flue on a standard efficiency furnace, the steam is much cooler on the high efficiency condensing furnaces.  So much cooler that the steam condenses into liquid water.  This is a big problem for venting into masonry or b-vent flues.  The solution is to vent the flue gases through water-tight, sealed pvc piping.  This requires a dedicated pvc flue and does not allow for a "common vent" option.  The pvc exhaust and intake (when necessary) are usually sidewall vented as shown in the picture above.  The high efficiency gas furnaces also require a condensate drain to remove the water produced by the furnace. 

 Now that we have an understanding of some of the differences between standard efficiency gas furnaces and high efficiency condensing gas furnaces, let's look at the new "Direct Final Rule" enacted by the U.S. Dept. of Energy that will be taking effect May 1, 2013.

This "Direct Final Rule" is known formally as "Residential Furnaces and Central Air Conditioners and Heat Pumps Direct Final Rule" can be found here :

http://www1.eere.energy.gov/buildings/appliance_standards/residential/residential_furnaces_cac_hp_direct_final_rule.html

 Also, you can find info on this site to bring awareness to the end consumer :

http://www.appliance-standards.org/product/furnaces

The most important impact of this rule that will affect residents of the state of Ohio and other northern states is the requirement that the minimum efficiency for new furnaces will be 90% or higher.  This means that the standard 80% efficiency furnaces will no longer be allowed to be installed after May 1, 2013. 

When I first heard of this rule, a problem immediately came to mind.  Some residences do not have an exterior wall near the furnace to pipe the sidewall vent required for the high efficiency condensing gas furnaces.  In particular, multi-family dwellings such as apartments, townhomes, and condos typically have a centrally located utility room with no access to an exterior wall for the sidewall vent.  I see this creating an additional expense to the homeowner in addition to the normally higher cost of installing a high efficiency condensing gas furnace.  The piping will need to be installed thru living rooms, kitchens, etc... and then soffitted to enclose the piping from view.  Other alternatives would involve replacing an existing standard efficiency gas furnace with an electric furnace and/or heat pump.  Personally, I would not consider that an improvement, just a way around the sidewall venting issue.  I am hoping that an ammendment to rule will be coming in the future, but I'm not holding my breath.  I'm all for conserving our energy, but feasibility must be considered.  I would think that excluding multi-family dwellings from the rule would go a long way in helping alleviate the problems that will arise from this rule.  Also, maybe a provision for certain single family homes without a good option for the sidewall venting as well.  And, then only for retrofit installations.  New builds can plan the high efficiency model furnaces into the contruction.

 There is more I could say, but I think this will suffice.

If you have an older standard efficiency furnace and have no access to an exterior wall, then now may a good time to consider installing a new standard efficiency model while there is still time left.  The last day to install a standard efficiency furnace is April 30, 2013.

In light of everything mentioned here you would think I don't like high efficiency furnaces, but not so.  I always look the high efficiency option first for my customers and give them all the of the pros and cons to allow them to make an informed and educated decision for themselves.  Usually, the only downside to the high efficiency models is the higher cost.

If you live in the central ohio area, you can call us for a free estimate to replace your existing furnace at 614-837-5062.

-Jim Harless III

It's that time of year!  Temperatures outside are dropping.  You set your thermostat to "heat" expecting your furnace to do it's job.  Only to discover hours later that the temperature in your home is dropping too.  Now what?  Well, before you call Minutemen Heating & Cooling, Inc. to assist you with this crisis, there are a couple of things you can do that may resolve the problem.  By the way, the furnace pictured here is beyond furnace repair and ready for recycling!

Safety first!  If you notice a strong odor of gas throughout your home, get everyone out.  Then, call your local fire department and your local gas service provider.  They are experts in dealing with gas leaks.  If you notice only a slight odor of gas and only near the furnace, then call us, we can help.

First of all, check the furnace air filter.  Replace or clean the filter if it is dirty. 

If your furnace is doing nothing at all, then try the following.  Check furnace breaker switch.  If it is tripped, reset it and try the heat again.  If it trips again immediately, do not try resetting it again as you could cause more damage to the furnace.  Call us to help you.  Also, even if it is not tripped, try turning it off and back on again.  Another thing, look for a switch that looks like a common light switch near the furnace.  This switch may not seem to affect any lights.  On occasion, I have gone on a service call and found that this switch had been unknowingly turned off .  It is a power switch specifically for the furnace.  Easy fix for me and a "doh!" moment for the homeowner.  Similarly, the furnace doors must be in place properly as well.  There is a safety shut off power switch that is engaged when the doors are in place.  Next, check to see if your pilot is out.  Some furnaces more than 15 years old will have a standing pilot.  This is the type of pilot that is always lit.  Only standing pilots can be re-lit.    Your furnace should have instructions on how to light the pilot.  If it does not, then you should not attempt to light it yourself.  Newer furnaces have electronic ignition systems which are self lighting and should not be lit manually.  If you still have no heat, then a furnace repair will be necessary.  

If your furnace is running, but not heating, then try the following.  Cycle the power to the furnace off and back on again.  Most furnaces have a diagnostic lock-out feature.  Cycling the power to the furnace resets this and the furnace will attempt another heating cycle.  If it still fails to heat, then call us at phone 614-837-5062 to schedule an appointment to repair your furnace.

If you have a heat pump system, and you have no heat, then you most likely have a problem with the indoor unit.  A problem with the outdoor unit may go undiscovered for some time because the indoor unit will usually switch into auxilliary heat mode when the outdoor unit fails to provide heat.  This problem will usually show up in a higher than normal electric bill (if your indoor unit is electric heat).  If this happens, check the outdoor unit.  If it is not running (give 5 minutes for delay timers), then check the breaker to the outdoor unit.  It will be a different breaker than the breaker for the furnace.  If it is tripped, reset the breaker.  If it trips again, do not reset it.  You can create a larger problem if you keep resetting it over and over again.  For example, a customer called us for a service call after repeatingly resetting his breaker.  Upon arrival, we found that a high voltage wire leading to the compressor had shifted up against a hot refrigerant line.  Over time the wire melted through and shorted against the copper refrigerant line creating a short that tripped the heat pump breaker.  Now, the initial short would have been unlikely to damage the refrigerant line.  But, the repeated resetting of the breaker burnt a hole through the copper and released all the freon from his system.  Had he called after resetting the breaker once or twice, the repair would have been a simple wire replacement.  But, in this case, we had to repair the refrigerant line and re-charge the freon as well which was definitely more costly.  Another thing to watch for with heat pumps is excessive frost build up on the outdoor unit.  By excessive, I mean 1-2 inches or more.  A light coating of frost can be normal.  The most likely causes for this excessive build up of frost is a defective defrost control or a low freon charge.  In which case, you will need to call us to set up a service call to repair your furnace or heat pump.

I hope this discussion on furnace repair has been informative and helpful.

If your furnace is still not working properly, call Minutemen Heating & Cooling, Inc. at 614-837-5062 to schedule an appointment for a service call to get your furnace repaired so that it will operate safely and efficiently  Also, we are available for after hours emergencies as well. 

-Jim Harless III

Who doesn’t want to save some money wherever they can? Here are five tips that may help you cut some cost on your air conditioning and heating bills.

Air conditioners are the main cause for the increase in those electric bills during the summer months. Columbus Ohio Heating and CoolingFurnaces are responsible for a big part of your electric and gas bill (if applicable) in the winter months. While these things greatly affect your utility charges, there are a few things you can do to save on your bill.

Have your furnace and air conditioner checked by a licensed reputable dealer each season before using. This will help your equipment work more economically and will increase your equipment’s dependability.

1 - Sometimes your heating or cooling equipment might need tuned up. This would be determined during your seasonal check out.

2 - Have freon leaks repaired on your air conditioner. If there is a leak present, it will lower the system’s performance and efficiency, and will end up costing you more money in electricity and repair costs.

3 - When purchasing a new unit, pay attention to the efficiency rating. The higher the rating, the more savings you will see on your utility costs. You may pay more for the unit, but should see a return with your energy costs over the equipment’s lifespan.

4 - If your house is empty for a particular time of the day, you may consider having a programmable thermostat installed. This enables you to set your unit to a more efficient temperature while you are away and then return it to a comfortable temperature level before you are to arrive back home.

5 - Make sure to clean and change your filters every thirty days.

At Minutemen Heating & Cooling, you can rest assured that we will walk you through this process with ease.

Here are a few things to consider when deciding on which unit to purchase and which unit will be most efficient for you. The higher efficient the unit is rated, the more money you will pay out in the beginning. Please be prepared to look at your system efficiency as an investment because it truly is! Once you make your purchase, you will find the higher efficiency systems will pay you back with lower energy costs over the life span of the unit.

Systems are rated in a few different ways as far as efficiency is concerned.

Making a decision on the right type of heating and air conditioning system you need in your home may seem very overwhelming. With so many choices and so many things to consider, you want to make sure you are working with someone who is going to keep you and your family’s best interest in mind when deciding on which system to place in your home.

Air Conditioners

A/C units are rated in Seasonal Energy Efficiency Rating, or in other words SEER.

SEER ratings show you how much cooling you get in return for a unit of electricity. The higher number in SEER rating, the more you get in return for your money. Here is an example:

If you replaced a unit that was rated at 5.0 with a 10.0, you would save 50% of the cost of electricity to operate the unit. Two speed units can run on low speed 80% of the time. This allows them to get ratings as high as 16.0 SEER.

Furnaces

Most heating units are rated as Annual Fuel Utilization Efficiency, or in other words, AFUE.

AFUE measures the amount of heat that is actually delivered to your home in comparison to the amount of fuel that you must supply to the heating unit. Here is an example:

A furnace that is rated 80% AFUE converts 80% of the fuel supplied to the unit for heating and the other 20% basically goes out the chimney. AFUE is referring only to the unit’s fuel efficiency, not the electric usage.

Something else you may want to consider when purchasing a new unit is the noise level. If the unit has a low sound level, you will barely notice when it is running. Units that have a high sound level could result in sleepless nights and not so happy neighbors!

One more thing, while replacing your system, you might consider having your ductwork checked to see if it is in need of repair or replacement. There may be some rooms in your home that get too hot, or too cold. There may also be insulation that is peeling, or there could be a buildup of contamination inside the duct. You should also have your return air grilles and grilles in each individual room checked to see if they are the proper size and are working correctly.

There are other add-ons to your system that you may want to look into that can allow your unit to help you and your family live more comfortably and promote better health. Air cleaners are a wonderful add-on that really improve the quality of life for allergy sufferers, and they also help keep your house cleaner. We have just the product for you that we are excited to offer our customers. Please ask us how you can try one out in your home at no cost.

Last but not least, here is a very simple thing you can do to keep your system running at it’s best- make sure you keep your filters clean and change them at least four times a year.